I’m writing this on the Number 1 train of the Trans Siberian express. This is my final day on the train from Beijing to Moscow and all in all it’s been a trip that I have wanted to make for many years. I haven’t been disappointed.

From previous visits I knew I would hate being in China. I really dislike Beijing so jumping on the train on a typically pollution filled Saturday morning was a joy. From there to crossing the border into Mongolia was something I had looked forward to for a long time. I was lucky in that I had chosen a first class carriage and was able to stay on board the train and watch the Bogeys (wheels) being changed on the border. Everyone in second class had been made to disembark and weren’t able to watch while the carriages were jacked up, the old wheels where pulled out and new wheels were slipped underneath.

My first stop, Sainshand, in the Gobi was fun. It had been raining and vehicles were getting bogged in the mix of muddy sand. Our own vehicle was bogged on numerous occasions. We stayed in a Ger camp that could have been better. There was only one shower for 17 of us and every meal was mutton… Including mutton soup for breakfast which meant that I lived on a diet of crackers and Vegemite for a few days.

The local train though to Ulaanbaator was fun. Second class with 3 of the people on the same trip and one of our friendly guides. The compartment was a little cosy with 4 of us in it but it was mostly overnight and we slept for most of the time up to Ulaanbaator so it didn’t make that much difference.

Naadaam in Ulaanbaator was fun. Even the pickpocket attempt didn’t sway my spirits. If anything it probably added to my experience because I knew the chain on my wallet would save my butt one day. To the friends of mine who gave me hell in London when I first showed it to them – Ha! Who’s laughing now? I enjoyed watching the Naadaam Opening Ceremony and the events that we saw. I think I am very lucky to have managed to have visited Mongolia during Naadaam.

The Ger camp outside of Ulaanbaator was much better than the one in the Gobi desert. For one, I didn’t have to share a Ger with anyone, the bathrooms were better and food at the camp was varied and really good.

Ulaanbaator to the border of Russia was on a local train in second class again. I was very surprised to have checked Facebook at the border and to have found Betsy and Warren (friends of friends) on the same train. I am grateful for their company and their sense of humour across Russia.

Everyone I have ever spoken to about this trip has told me that Lake Baikal is a wonderful place and an essential stop on the Trans Siberian. Well I’ve been there and I disagree. It’s two days that I could have done without. In saying that though, it may have been because we stayed in Listvyankia which I found to be like a 1960s English seaside resort… Only worse! Maybe there are better places to stay at the Lake but I certainly wouldn’t recommend Listvyankia.

Irkutsk was a charming little town full of quirky people and things to see but also modern enough have international restaurants. Despite not speaking Russian I had no problems finding my way around, visiting the sights and stocking up on rations for the train trip.

49 hours on the Number 1 train from Irkutsk to Ekaterinburg went surprisingly fast. I don’t think I was ever bored on that train. Between chatting with Betsy and Warren, being fed by the ultra friendly babooshka in their compartment, watching movies, reading my book, falling asleep, checking out the scenery, hopping off the train at different stops every few hours, visiting the ripoff dining car, and drinking Russian champagne, time seemed to fly by and next thing I knew I was in Ekaterinburg.

I loved Ekaterinburg but surprisingly few people got off at that stop. I enjoyed the city and seeing its history despite the tragic events that occurred here. I enjoyed straddling the Asia/Europe border. Ekaterinburg has to have been my favourite Russian city to date. What surprised me most in Ekaterinburg was despite the fact that we were still in Asia (only just) cars actually stopped for you at pedestrian crossings. I had got so used to playing chicken with the traffic in Asia that the first time a car stopped for me at a crossing I was totally surprised.

For a bit of a laugh, Betsy, Warren and I have agreed that we are going to do a video to the tune of “Moscow, Moscow” which was the tune from the 1980s Moscow Olympics. We started recording it last night so keep an eye on the blog over the next few days and you may see it or a link to it.

Preparing to record part of the video

Preparing to record part of the video

Right now it’s 11am Moscow time which means I have a little under 6 hours left until I have completed the Trans Siberian. If you ever consider this trip, I would have to recommend a few things:

      • torch – you will need it if you are in the desert or purely just for reading at night.
      • Food – bring some stuff from home. You can stock up along the way but sometimes it is nice to be able to eat something you really like. Eg vegemite crackers in the desert.
      • Tea, coffee, milo etc – great for drinking on the train.
      • Water – you can buy it along the way, just make sure you don’t run out
      • Kindle – much better than just one book
      • Wet wipes – On the longer segments these become your shower and the best way to wash.
      • A mug and teaspoon – what else are you going to make your tea or coffee in?
      • Small knife – useful for cutting sausage, cheese, tomatoes etc
      • Guide books – Trans Siberian handbook seems to be the best
      • power adaptor – you need the 2 round pin european plug

I’m sure there are probably a long list of other things to consider and if you have any questions, just ask. I’ll be happy to answer them.

Last stop before Moscow on the Trans Siberian

Last stop before Moscow on the Trans Siberian